Following up on our Kintamani series, we are taking you to discover the ancient village of Trunyan. If you have missed our previous posts on the region, you can read them at:
Trunyan is a small isolated village located in the Kintamani district of Bali on the eastern shore of Lake Batur at the foot of Mount Abang. The people of Trunyan are generally considered to be "Bali Aga" people, the mountain Balinese. Unlike the lowland Balinese, Bali Aga people practice ancient rituals that predate the arrival of Hinduism or Buddhism. The Bali Aga of Trunyan is noted for its unique traditions, even among the Bali Aga.
Unlike most Balinese, who traditionally cremate their dead, the people of Trunyan follow a unique practice of placing their deceased above ground in a dedicated cometary — a tradition that continues to this day.
Often mistakenly referred as the "skull island", the Trunyan cemetery is not actually an is land; and this blog post is here to tell you all about it and how to visit it during your time in Bali
Trunyan cemetery
The people of Trunyan follow customs found nowhere else in Bali, many of which are unique even among the Bali Aga people. One of their most distinctive traditions is how they handle the dead. Instead of cremation, as is common in Balinese culture, the Trunyanese lay the deceased on the ground, covering the body with a cloth and enclosing it in a bamboo cage. The corpses are left to naturally decompose, but remarkably, they do not emit a foul odor. This is believed to be due to the presence of an ancient banyan tree, known as taru menyan (literally meaning "fragrant tree"), which is said to release a scent that neutralizes the smell of decay. The name "Trunyan" is thought to have originated from this tree.
The Trunyan cemetery can accommodate a maximum of 11 bodies at a time in bamboo cages. When space is needed, the oldest remains are carefully moved to an open-air ossuary. As part of this burial tradition, the deceased are laid to rest with some of their favorite or everyday belongings. Only married individuals are given this open-air burial; those who were unmarried at the time of death are buried in a nearby cemetery. Once a corpse has fully decomposed, the skull is placed on a stair-shaped stone altar, located approximately 500 meters north of Banjar Kuban—a site accessible only by boat.
Visiting Trunyan cemetery
The Trunyan cemetery is accessible only by boat, as there are no roads or footpaths leading to it. Nestled at the base of a cliff along the lake shore, the site remains secluded and untouched by traditional land routes.
Visitors typically do not spend much time at the cemetery, as the boat ride takes just 10–15 minutes, and the burial site itself is quite small. The entire visit can be completed in about an hour.
There are two main ways to reach the site:
- Book a guided tour – The best option is to arrange a tour with a reputable agency or guide. Given the brief duration of the visit, tours often include stops at other attractions in the area, making for a more enriching experience.
- Hire a boat independently – You can find local boat operators on the lake offering return trips to the cemetery, usually costing around 700,000 IDR per boat. Since the fare is per boat rather than per person, gathering a group (boats typically hold 8–10 passengers) can help reduce individual costs.
While hiring a boat directly may seem convenient, there are key reasons why a guided tour is the better choice:
- Avoid inflated fees – Boat services are often controlled by a local group that charges excessive rates. If you do opt for a private boat, try to share the cost with others.
- Gain cultural insights – Simply taking a boat to the site means missing out on the rich history and traditions of the Trunyanese people. A knowledgeable guide can provide invaluable context about local burial rituals, customs, and the significance of Trunyan’s unique traditions.
Booking a tour ensures a smoother, more informative experience while avoiding unnecessary hassles.
Lastly, you may be invited by locals to visit Trunyan village in addition to the cemetery—it's important to note that the two are separate. Unlike the cemetery, which can only be reached by boat, the village is accessible either by another boat ride or possibly by road. However, the village itself doesn’t offer much in terms of cultural experiences and, unfortunately, has gained a reputation for persistent beggars frequently approaching tourists.
TLDR;
Visiting Trunyan offers a rare glimpse into one of Bali’s most unique and ancient traditions. The open-air burial practice, the mystical taru menyan tree, and the secluded location make it a truly fascinating cultural experience. While the journey requires some planning, a guided tour ensures a deeper understanding of peculiar culture. Whether you're drawn by history, anthropology, or curiosity, this hidden corner of Bali is sure to leave a lasting impression.
